Echoes on the Edge: Tide pools, Petroglyphs & the Untamed Beauty of the Olympic Coast

Written By Shanenn Maher

Some places feel like the edge of the world. And then there’s the Olympic Coast. Rugged, fog-draped, and relentlessly alive, this stretch of Northwest Washington is full of stories. Petroglyphs carved into volcanic stone, tidepools brimming with vibrant marine life, and quiet moments that ask you to stop, listen, and pay attention.

This week’s archive is a reflection on a trip my friend and I took through Shi Shi Beach and the Ozette Triangle. Over the course of three days and two nights, we hiked through thick forest and along ancestral shoreline, camped on the edge of the continent, explored tidepools that felt like alien worlds, and shared a trail with a black bear and an 80-year-old hiking legend. It reminded us that this land isn’t curated for us. We’re lucky just to pass through.

Day One: Shi Shi Beach Arrival

We started early afternoon, making our way along forest trails and raised boardwalks softened by moss and fog. The path was slick with mud and shadows, and just when I started to wonder if the beach was a myth, the trees parted.

Shi Shi Beach is long, wild, and jaw-dropping. Mist rolled across black sand. Driftwood was scattered like bones. We set up camp just above the high tide line, tucked into a curve of weathered logs. The air was soft and cool, the sky a low sheet of clouds. There were no stars that night—just waves and the hush of something ancient. I passed out at 7:15 p.m. and didn’t wake up once.

Day Two: Arches, Tidepools, and the Road to Ozette

By morning, the mist had lifted just enough to reveal what we’d missed the night before. Towering rock arches stood just offshore, carved by time and surf. We wandered through tidepools that looked like miniature planets—starfish clinging to stone, sea anemones swaying with the tide, limpets and barnacles layered like armor.

After coffee and barefoot exploring, we packed up and drove south to Lake Ozette. This would be the start of the second leg: the famous Ozette Triangle, a 9.4-mile loop of coastline and boardwalk. It felt like stepping into a brand-new story.

Cape Alava: A Sunset Worth Waiting For (and a Bear We Didn’t Ask For)

We reached Cape Alava by early evening and set up camp overlooking the sea. Unlike Shi Shi, there wasn’t much driftwood here. It meant fewer natural windbreaks or benches to sit on, but there was a small freshwater stream nearby for filtering water and a surprisingly clean outhouse that had a conveyer belt? I’m not entirely sure as I chose to not use it, but my friend was pleased with the cleanliness.

Then, just as we started cooking dinner, the clouds finally broke. After a full day of gray, the sky cracked open and spilled gold across the water. The sea stacks lit up in soft orange. It was the kind of sunset that makes you stop mid-sentence and go completely still. I felt gratitude and God.

The next morning, still dreamy from the view, we made our way south along the coast. And that’s when we saw her.

A black bear. Calm, slow, completely unbothered by us. We froze. She didn’t. That’s when an 80-year-old man appeared around the bend—confident, cool, and comical.

“Oh, that one? She’s fine,” he said casually, gesturing with a trekking pole. “She’s smaller than the one from last time.”

Side note? I want to be like him when I grow up.

We followed his lead—talking loudly, giving her space, and staying on the move. And it worked. For anyone nervous: there’s never been a recorded bear attack at Ozette, though sightings, especially around Sand Point, aren’t uncommon. Keep food secured, rent a bear canister, and stay aware.

Wedding Rocks: Carvings in Stone, Stories in Silence

🔍 Learn More About the Petroglyphs

Between Cape Alava and Sand Point, we came to Wedding Rocks. The name sounds romantic, but what you’ll find here is far more powerful.

Petroglyphs carved into basalt—images of whales, people, ships and priests. These markings are hundreds of years old, left by the Makah and Coast Salish peoples, and they’re not roped off or fenced in. There are no signs, no filters, no translations —> please behave while visiting.

You crouch beside them in the sand, eye-level with history, and realize this isn’t a museum. This is living land. These carvings are memory held in stone, and the tide is always trying to take them back.

The Final Stretch: Sand Point to Ozette Trailhead

The last few miles took us through forest boardwalks softened by time. The air was still damp, the light filtered and green. We moved with tired legs, full hearts, and calm minds.

The triangle may only be 9.4 miles, but it carries the depth of something much older. It doesn’t feel like a hike. It feels like a pilgrimage.

—> My coastal cutie.

Planning Your Own Trip?

Permits & Passes

Tides

Essential Gear

  • Tent, sleeping bag, and pad

  • Bear canister (Rent from REI Tacoma)

  • Water filter (there’s a source at Cape Alava)

  • Rain jacket, warm layers, extra socks

  • Hiking boots + camp shoes (flips/slides)

  • Lightweight stove (or jet boil), dehydrated meals, snacks

  • Map, compass, and headlamp (no cell service out there)

  • Trowel + biodegradable wipes (Leave No Trace)

  • Sunscreen + sunhat

Why Go Now

Because the coast isn’t waiting to be discovered. It’s just existing—untamed and unfiltered. It doesn’t care about your Instagram story. It doesn’t care if the sun comes out for your sunset photo. It’s not here to please you.

But it will show you things. Ancient carvings, tidal life clinging to rock, the rhythm of water that’s never stopped moving. Maybe even a bear. And if you’re lucky, someone who’s been walking this coastline for decades might pass by and remind you that adventure, kindness, and grit age very, very well.

This place still exists. Still tells stories. Still asks you to come quietly.

Whether you’re planning your own trek to the Olympic coast or just dreaming from your screen, I hope this archive leaves you a little more curious, a little more grounded, and a lot more in love with the quiet wild.

See you next Wednesday!

— Shannen

Shanenn Maher
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